Seeing your jumping spider moult for the first time can be worrying. While preparing to moult, your spider may disappear into a thick silk hammock. Refusing food during this time is completely normal. There's no need to panic—this is completely normal. Instead, keep the enclosure stable and leave your jumping spider undisturbed until the moult is complete.
What Is a Jumping Spider Moult?
A jumping spider cannot grow inside its old exoskeleton. To move into the next life stage (instar), they shed that outer layer and gradually harden a new one. Young jumping spiders moult often; the gaps generally become longer as they mature. Adult males typically stop moulting after their final (ultimate) moult.
Signs Your Jumping Spider May Be Preparing to Moult
Look for a combination of signs rather than relying on one alone:
• A sudden refusal of food, even when the prey offered is normally accepted.
• More time spent in a thickened, closed-off silk hammock or “moult web”.
• Less activity and little interest in exploring.
• Plumper abdomen shortly before they settle in.
• Darker, duller appearance in some species — but colour changes are not universal.
Jumping spiders can remain in pre-moult for several days or longer, especially as they get older. Provide the correct temperature and fresh drinking droplets. Then give your jumping spider time to moult naturally. Patience is usually the best approach.
The moulting timeline: what to expect
1. Pre-moult: Your spider makes a secure retreat, eats less or stops eating, and becomes reclusive. This can last from a few days to a few weeks.
2. The moult itself: Inside the hammock, the spider works its way out of the old exoskeleton. It may lie on its back or side, which is normal for many spiders. Do not open the web to check.
3. Soft-shell recovery: After emerging, the new exoskeleton, fangs and joints are soft. Your spider may stay hidden for another few days while it hardens.
Once it leaves its hammock, it will gradually return to its usual routine. Most spiders begin exploring again and resume feeding within a day or two.
What not to do during a moult
• Resist the urge to handle your jumping spider or tap the enclosure.
• Leave all silk and the hammock intact until your spider has completely finished moulting.
• Keep live prey out of the enclosure during a moult. Even small feeder insects can stress, bite or disturb a vulnerable spider.
• Unless there's an emergency, avoid deep-cleaning, rearranging décor or moving the enclosure.
• Do not spray directly onto the spider or flood the enclosure.
• Do not panic if the spider is motionless in its web; give it quiet time.
Humidity: helpful, not swampy
Moisture matters because it supports hydration, but the right target depends on the species, enclosure ventilation and room conditions. Many commonly kept Phidippus jumping spiders do well with moderate humidity. During pre-moult, around 60–70% can be a useful guide. However, it isn't a universal rule.
Monitoring temperature and humidity is much easier with a digital hygrometer. Browse our Hygrometer Thermometer to help keep your jumping spider's enclosure within the ideal range.
Aim for a light mist on one side of the enclosure. This provides drinking droplets while allowing the enclosure to dry between mistings. Good ventilation is essential. Constantly wet walls, soggy substrate, condensation that does not clear, or mould are signs conditions are too damp. Avoid direct misting into the hammock.
Feeding after the moult
Wait until your jumping spider has emerged from the hammock and is moving normally. Wait at least 3–5 days before feeding most jumping spiders after a moult. Larger or older spiders may need extra time for their fangs and exoskeleton to harden.
Start with a small, appropriately sized, non-aggressive feeder. A hungry spider will usually show interest once it is ready. Remove any uneaten prey promptly, and continue providing water droplets as usual. Do not worry if the first meal is small — appetite often returns gradually.
Why moults sometimes fail
A difficult or incomplete moult can happen even with good care, and it is not always preventable. Several factors can contribute to a difficult moult. These include dehydration, unstable humidity, poor ventilation, low temperatures, stress, illness, injury, old age and poor nutrition.
The best prevention is consistent husbandry. Provide the correct temperature, fresh drinking droplets and good airflow. Offer a secure top-level retreat, suitable prey and keep disturbance to a minimum. Avoid dramatic “rescue” changes while your spider is actively moulting. If you notice retained skin, a trapped limb or prolonged distress, seek expert advice. An experienced exotic veterinarian or reputable jumping spider specialist can recommend the safest next steps.
A calm enclosure is the best support
Moulting is a vulnerable stage in a jumping spider’s life. However, it is also a normal one. Keep the enclosure stable. Remove any live prey. Provide gentle access to moisture. Let your spider emerge in its own time. Patience gives your spider the best chance of a successful moult.
For more general information about spider moulting and arachnid care, visit the British Tarantula Society.
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